CORK'S A CORKER!

Tuesday 6th February 2007

By Jo Woods

As Ireland's second city, Cork has a buzz about it 24-7, but it's after dark when it really comes to life.

As dusk falls on this cheerful corner of south-west Ireland, traditional Irish music floats out of atmospheric pubs, bars that look no wider than postage stamps open out, TARDIS-like, into huge drinking and dancing dens, and everyone seems up for a party, or the craic, as they call it in these parts.

Hen and stag nights still stagger along Oliver Plunkett Street, but Cork's nightlife scene is getting trendier by the day. Swish bars and superb restaurants are springing up alongside the more traditional establishments.

Cork was built on an island in the River Lee, and its centre is still squashed between the river's two channels. It's a charismatic place full of church spires, limestone buildings, colourfully fronted shops and bars, and gallons of Gaelic charm.

By day, crowds meander along St Patrick Street, a mix of old buildings, offices and shops, ranging from department store Brown Thomas to JC Penney – the Irish branch of Primark – and everything in between.

Fresh produce, such as bread, meat, fish and the local delicacy tripe and drisheen (Irish black pudding), can be bought in the nearby covered English Market, which dates back to 1788. And you'll find trendy shops and cafes in and around Paul Street, once the centre of the city's French protestant quarter and now one of its hippest areas.

But Cork's attractions aren't all in the centre. Across the river to the north is Cork City Gaol, where you can see what life was like in and outside prison in the 19th century, and strolling south you'll stumble on the impressive St Fin Barre's cathedral.

DON'T MISS
The Blarney Stone Legend says eloquence will be bestowed an all who kiss this rock in Blarney Castle. But getting your lips on it involves dangling backwards crab-style over a parapet while someone holds your legs.

Kinsale Set around a marina on the mouth of the river Bandon, Kinsale's colourful houses and gourmet restaurants have made it one of the prettiest, most fashionable resorts in the area.

Cobh Thousands of emigrants left for the US from this town, known as Queenstown before 1922. The Queenstown Story visitor attraction tells what it was like for these people, including Annie Moore, the first to pass through New York's Ellis Island, whose statue stands beside the pier.

A bite to eat Prime, in Clancy's on Princes Street, serves an Irish menu and some of the best steaks in the country. The cocktail bar downstairs is open late, and there's traditional music Thursday to Sunday.

Bring back Jameson whiskey, Murphy's stout, a Blarney Stone souvenir, knitwear from Blarney Woollen Mill, Celtic-themed jewellery and crafts, and beauty products containing seaweed.